Punakha to Paro

Sunday 27th

We have a long drive ahead on our little bus, to get all the way back to Paro from Punakha. But the glorious scenery makes up for the winding roads, and we reach Paro in time for a late lunch. Along the way we've stopped at a couple of immigration checkpoints - Bhutan likes to keep tabs on its foreign visitors - and seen a giant gold Buddha atop a hill near Thimphu. From a distance, this 169-foot monument looks as big as the Buddha which dominates the peaks of Lantau in Hong Kong, and in fact it's being funded by donations from Buddhists in Hong Kong and Singapore.

We're thrilled to reach the Zhiwa Ling Hotel, situated in a lovely valley outside Paro. 'To be worthy of such a setting, a hotel must be truly extraordinary', says the brochure, and indeed it is. It's the first wholly Bhutanese-owned luxury hotel, and it celebrates the kingdom's arts and crafts throughout. The architect, Peter Kampf, is from San Francisco and we happen to meet him over pre-dinner drinks. The hotel took over 3 years to build because the stonework and intricately decorated woodwork are all hand-carved. In deference to local tradition, there are no elevators, though some rooms are on the third floor! Most are in 'cottages' around the grounds, with balconies facing the mountain views. Advanced technology is combined with the traditional architecture - underfloor heating, and the best wireless network I've found for a week.

Soon after our arrival, we watch a demonstration of archery - the national sport - in the warm afternoon sun, and get to try our own skill with a bow and arrow. We don't do badly for beginners!

My roommate and I go for massages in the hotel spa - very welcome, but perhaps we should have waited until after tomorrow's planned hike to the Tiger's Nest Monastery! Tonight we have a gala dinner in a private dining room, and psych ourselves for the climb to Tiger's Nest.