Monday 28th
Today's destination, Taktshang Goemba or Tiger's Nest Monastery, is perched on a sheer cliff at an altitude of 10,240 feet. We'll be climbing some 2,000 feet from the trailhead to reach it. It's a clear blue sky, cool morning, perfect for the hike. Legend has it that Guru Rinpoche, who converted the king to Buddhism in the 8th century, flew to the inaccessible site on the back of a tigress to subdue a local demon, and meditated in a cave for three months.
This, and a 17th century visit by Bhutan's unifier, the Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, makes Taktshang one of the country's holiest places. The buildings were destroyed by fire in 1998, and restored with the help of local people (Chimi told us that each household had to contribute 3 months' labor), and a temporary cable lift to carry supplies. There was some debate about keeping the lift to transport visitors up the mountain, but it was removed, and the only way up is on foot (or on horseback to the midway teahouse).
All but two of our group embark on the hike, climbing up a well kept trail through blue pines for two hours (with plenty of stops) until we reach the teahouse.
This is far enough for three of the group, and a beautiful spot to stop and enjoy the views.
Eight of us carry on as the path gets steeper and we level with the monastery. It looks impossible to reach: it's on the far side of a ravine. Bob goes ahead and takes a wrong turn, ending up on a narrow ledge above a waterfall, and having to retrace his steps to rejoin the main path! Setting out down steep steps to cross the ravine, I feel as though there's not much between me and the valley floor, but Chimi leads us on. We cross a wooden bridge bedecked with prayer flags just below the waterfall, and then make the final ascent to the monastery. No photos allowed, but we can enter and contemplate the (locked) entrance to the cave where Guru Rinpoche meditated, and the amazing feat of building and rebuilding (more than once over the centuries) this extraordinary temple, still inhabited by a community of monks today.
The descent is punishing on knees and hips, but we have a tremendous sense of accomplishment at the end of a five hour adventure. Chimi has set up another of her famous picnics, which we enjoy in the woods surrounded by wandering cows.
Then it's back to Zhiwa Ling (with a trip into town for the most dedicated shoppers), and a colorful dance performance before our final, convivial evening in Bhutan.
This, and a 17th century visit by Bhutan's unifier, the Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, makes Taktshang one of the country's holiest places. The buildings were destroyed by fire in 1998, and restored with the help of local people (Chimi told us that each household had to contribute 3 months' labor), and a temporary cable lift to carry supplies. There was some debate about keeping the lift to transport visitors up the mountain, but it was removed, and the only way up is on foot (or on horseback to the midway teahouse).
Eight of us carry on as the path gets steeper and we level with the monastery. It looks impossible to reach: it's on the far side of a ravine. Bob goes ahead and takes a wrong turn, ending up on a narrow ledge above a waterfall, and having to retrace his steps to rejoin the main path! Setting out down steep steps to cross the ravine, I feel as though there's not much between me and the valley floor, but Chimi leads us on. We cross a wooden bridge bedecked with prayer flags just below the waterfall, and then make the final ascent to the monastery. No photos allowed, but we can enter and contemplate the (locked) entrance to the cave where Guru Rinpoche meditated, and the amazing feat of building and rebuilding (more than once over the centuries) this extraordinary temple, still inhabited by a community of monks today.The descent is punishing on knees and hips, but we have a tremendous sense of accomplishment at the end of a five hour adventure. Chimi has set up another of her famous picnics, which we enjoy in the woods surrounded by wandering cows.
Well done you getting to the Tiger's Nest - I remember that was one of the highlights of my friend's visits - that ravine looks pretty steep! Also v nice to read about Delhi, Madras and Pondicherry and see some familiar sights - made me want to follow in your footsteps NOW!
ReplyDeleteAlso good that you managed to find the hotel and club which your parents used! Sounds like a fantastic (and very action-packed!) trip.
Alison
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